Archive for August, 1999

Effective Odds and Draws

In low limits drawing to flushes open-ended straights seems almost automatic. But, what about draws with fewer outs? At some point of your poker career, it becomes necessary to be aware of the pot size and the odds of sucking out. And it becomes necessary to calculate. For a more technical info on drawing, see Abdul's Theory of Sucking Out.

The following is excerpts from rec.gambling.poker on this subject. Enjoy.

Izmet


From: izmet@siol.net (Izmet Fekali)
Subject: Re: Effective Odds and Draws...
Date: 23 Aug 1999 00:00:00 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.gambling.poker

HitTheFlop writes:


If it's three way with only 3 sb in the pot it's right on the cusp. you're getting 4:1 (3 in pre-flop + yours + opponents) on a 4:1 shot that doesn't always win and doesn't always get paid off. Add to it that on the turn you'll be getting only 3.5:1 and will probably give it up. You won't lose much or win much either way. The illusion of action theory might push you toward playing.

It's usually not that simple.

Play on the turn is str8foward.

Usually.

Gremlin writes:

It is 2:1 on the flop to make the flush by the river. You should only calculate it as 4:1 if you only plan to stay in for just one card, right? It doesn't make sense to say you're getting 4:1 to make your flush on the turn if you plan to stay in for both cards, does it??

Staying for one card only or chasing to the river is two separate things. One card only draws (draws with one card to come) are pretty straightforward (as HitTheFlop concurs), especially if one is last to act, closing the action on that round. Not so when one plans to go from the flop all the way to the river.

One has to anticipate future action, raises, check-raises, calls and folds on the current round and beyond. Doing this with a high degree of accuracy is close to impossible; approximations are usually in order. In addition, one can seldom know exactly where one stands (one might be drawing dead, have opponents beat already, some of the outs might not be good, one might win without a showdown, hit a backdoor draw, etc.).

Open-end straight and flush draws on the flop are automatic, except in some tough tight games heads-up (but I presume you are wise enough to stay away from those, right?). It's most often a check-and-call situation (or raise-for-a-cheaper-card-on-the-turn in late position). Another exception is if there are many people in the pot where ram-jam tactics are in order (see Rammin' and Jammin' on a Draw). In case of slimmer draws (e.g. gutshots), I prefer evaluation on round per round basis. Let's say the game is $10-20, I have a gutshot draw (and nothing much else, for the sake of simplicity) on the flop in a five way unraised pot. Somebody in early position bets; there is one caller. Do I have a call?

I say yes.

Let's look at the method you describe (the "effective odds" method). There is $70 in the pot now. Odds for completing the gutshot draw by the river (two cards to come) are about 16.5% or 5 to 1 against if you plan to take your draw that far. If your opponent bets again on the turn and the third player folds, you'll invest $30 to win about $130 ($70 on the flop + $ 20 bet on the turn + $20 bet on the river + $20 call of your raise - keep in mind this is just one possible scenario). In view of this, the $10 call on the flop seems like a bad idea with 5 to 1 odds and probable $130 payout on your probable $30 investment (You might get raised by the third player if he stays in. OTOH, you might get a free card on the turn).

Yet, experienced players often call in this situation.

IMHO, it's much better to evaluate slim draws (5 outs or less) on a round to round basis:

What if you decide to take a card off and fold on the turn if you do not improve? The odds for hitting a gutshot on the next card are about 11 to 1 against. You are getting 7 to 1 from the pot. Not enough? Well, it's plenty enough!

Here, you're getting good implied odds, as you only plan to invest $10, but you'll get a good payoff if the turn card hits you in the nuts. You'll get the missing 4 small bets in future rounds as follows:

$20 from his bet on the turn, $20 from his calling your raise and $20 from him calling you down on the river not believing you went for a gutshot (it's usually good to know your opponents in poker), with $70 current pot, that's a total of $130. If the third player stays in on the turn, the payoff can be much better, of course.

But then again, somebody might hurt your hairy softballs with a backdoor flush on the river… you just can't be sure… but we shouldn't live in fear, either (otherwise, what's the point?).

If the turn card doesn't hit, you must fold, unless there are 11 big bets in the pot on the turn (quite impossible in the example above, but a common occurrence in low limit games). If you don't fold at this point (maybe you are on tilt, maybe you have a extrasensory "feeling" about the next card), the whole "implied odds" exercise above is pointless.

My point is, I guess, draws are unbelievably complicated and the kind of analysis above is best done away from the tables. There's just no time to do all this at the tables, where rules of thumb really rock'n'rule. Like, stay with good draws with 6 outs or more, take a card off on the flop for gutshots, never draw to an 2-outer, etc… Be sure to construct your own rules of thumb pertaining your particular situation. A soft no-fold'em game requires a different pair of thumbs than a Binion's $20-40 afternoon hold'em game full of retired geezers you expect to keel over the table any moment now…

Automatic bet counting as the pot grows is imperative; it should be second nature to a serious player. IMO, without this one cannot have even an approximate idea of where one stands.

And keep in mind that above examples are greatly oversimplified. What about overcards, backdoor flushes, bluffs, semi-bluffs, free cards, etc.? It's a great game.

Have fun racking those chips.

P.S. If my reasoning is incorrect, please feel free to comment or flame. I'm willingly sticking my neck out on rgp to get rid of misconceptions as soon as possible. Thanks for your replies.

Izmet


From: izmet@siol.net (Izmet Fekali)
Subject: Re: Effective Odds and Draws...
Date: 23 Aug 1999 00:00:00 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.gambling.poker

Gregory Raymer wrote:

Maybe you shouldn't make your decision (about whether or not to stay in for BOTH cards) until the situation on the turn presents itself. Let's say you're the big blind with As5s. 1 caller in mid-position, SB calls, you check. Flop is Ks8s6s. SB checks, you check, mid-position bets,

You flopped the nuts here, but it's obviously a typo. Read this as Ks8s6d (or something).

SB folds. Right now, there are 4 bets in the pot. If you call here, and the turn card is a spade, you will probably win greater than 95% of the time. Plus, you will probably get at least 1 big bet from your opponent. So, you should call. 5 bets in the pot (2.5 big bets). Turn is 2d. You check, opponent bets, 3.5 big bets in the pot. Now, if you call, you only win 3.5 big bets, plus any money you can get your opponent to put in on the river. Thus, unless you're pretty sure that he will call your river bet (or that you can get in a check-raise), you should fold here.

The call on the flop was +EV. The call on the turn was -EV. Even if put together they have +EV, it still seems that you should call the flop and fold the turn here.

It seems that we have a paradox here. Let's look at the situation this way:

You have better than 2 to 1 odds on the flop if you plan to call all the way to the river. If your opponent bets on the turn, you are getting 6 small bets (3 before the flop, 1 from your opponent betting on the flop and 2 from your opponent betting on the turn) for a 3 small bets investment (1 for a call on the flop, 2 for a call on the turn).

It's a clear call (both on flop and turn).

This reasoning contradicts the reasoning above. Which is correct?

(Actually, in artificially contriving this hand, I've not played it well. So, please ignore how this hand should be played, especially the fact that you have 3 aces to hit that might also give you the best hand. It is only intended to be an example of calling with a draw on the flop, and then correctly folding on the turn, a play that is sometimes correct.)

Right, other outs severely complicate things…

Izmet

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Learning to Win

From: izmet@siol.net (Izmet Fekali)
Subject: Re: Learning to Win
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 1999 15:05:00 GMT
Newsgroups: rec.gambling.poker

In 7pa8ak$lli@news.service.uci.edu "Gabe" wrote:

Hi. I've just recently started playing poker. I've bought and read (only once so far) Sklansky's The Theory of Poker, and Turbo Texas Hold 'em is in the mail. I also managed to lose $80 in 6 hours my first time out at the Sahara in a 1-4-8 Hold'em game. I live in the South Bay (SoCal) and there are card rooms in Gardena that I hope some of you are familiar with. I'm a disenchanted philosophy major about to graduate who's looking to make a buck in cards/sports/backgammon. OK so that's where I stand…I was hoping some of you experienced players might help me out.

Books: What to read? I think I did good choosing the Sklansky book and will read it often I'm sure…now what? I've ordered Sklansky's Hold'em book (not the advanced one…yet), but couldn't find a comparable seven stud book…suggestions? Other general reading advice?

You can't go wrong with Theory of Poker. The first book on hold'em by Sklansky is also OK. The Advanced edition is not helpful for low limits and tends to confuse beginners.

The best book to date on loose games is Lee Jones's Winning Low Limit Hold'em. It's a must. For 7stud, Roy West's book is about best for beginners. When you put some mileage in 7stud, S&M Seven Card Stud for Advanced Players is best.

Get Caro's Body Language of Poker, it will not make you money in your novice period, but it will make you aware of what is going on at the table during a game of poker.

Get Mike Petriv's Hold'em Odds, you will use it repeatedly as a reference.

You do not need anything else currently in print, but if interested, rgp-ers will give you more pointers. There is lot's of good reading out there.

But, the best material BY FAR can be found in past rec.gambling.poker archives. Go to www.dejanews.com and take it from there. Some rgp posters are pretty smart, some are blissful morons, it's up to you to figure out who is who. By doing this, the game will soon start making sense to you. Make your own conclusions, build your own strategy. Listen to everyone. Trust no one. Read rgp FAQ, it's a good starting point for finding more information.

Turbo programs? Get them all. In terms of value, the price is negligible.

Playing: Namely, where? I've got to start somewhere, and I'm hoping the Normandie Casino low limit games in Gardena aren't a bad idea. What's the scoop? I haven't been there yet. I won't come across overwhelming competition will I? How about in Vegas? Where should a relative beginner play (low limit hold'em mostly) when he's in Vegas? Would I be better off trying to make a profit in Gardena or Vegas?

What are your motives? Don't care about the money, have enough and want to be on par with the best someday? Bellagio in Vegas is the place to be. Wanna have some inexpensive fun? Maybe eek a nice steady profit? Stay in California.

Any general advice?

Hold'em is my game, sir, I do not dare giving advice on 7stud. On hold'em, I'm confident enough to offer the following to be brain munched:

When you get some experience, study Abdul's Preflop Openers (http://www.posev.com/poker/holdem/strategy/preflop-abdul.html). This should help tremendously with your preflop game. It will make you understand the underlying mechanics of the game. Learn the preflop game well. It's a rare occasion to call correctly preflop, it's usually much better to raise of fold. Play tight.

Take a look at http://www.fekali.com, you'll find more material on low limit hold'em there as days go by.

Play, play, play. When starting out, play a solid straightforward game, do not waste time with bluffs, slowplays, banks, good laydowns. Do not let them push you off your hand if you started good. Fight. Fight with raises, not calls. Learn when to run. When there's a good (but not 100%) chance of holding the best hand, throw your chips at opponents like there's no tomorrow. Aim for the forehead with a solid swing. Let them fear you.

Try not to call if you cannot raise. It's OK to raise with speculative holdings, but it's a disaster to routinely call with second best hands. You simply have to have a hand to call.

Call when drawing. Even then it pays to stick 'em with a raise sometimes. Know your basic drawing odds down pat. What are your chances with a four flush on the flop? What are your chances of hitting your kicker? What are the chances your kicker is good? Is it smart to chase this pot with a gutshot? What are your chances of drawing dead? For thorough discussion on drawing, again see Abdul's Theory of Sucking Out at http://www.posev.com/poker/holdem/strategy/outs-abdul.html.

It's not an easiest read, but it surely is the most relevant advice published on the subject anywhere.

When surrounded with fish, learn to ram and jam. See http://www.fekali.com for this concept.

When raised, stop, think, reevaluate. A raise is an incoming message. What is the sender trying to communicate? Does he have something to say or has he just pressed a wrong button at the wrong time? Bets and calls are often automatic, not so with raises. When in doubt, fold. If you like winning, you'll have to do lots of folding. Flea and live to tell.

Try to know your players. The correct poker move at any point is a function of the opponents. What are their tendencies, what are their motives, what are their habits? Who is the best player at the table? Who are the suckers? Who is having fun? Who is losing? Who is the village idiot? Who seems always to flip over a solid hand at the showdown? Who hit a gutshot-gutshot straight on the river? Who will you run from, who can you run over?

Examine your motives for playing. Some people play for money, some for fun, some for the excitement, some for the punishment. These are all valid reasons to play poker. Respect the losers, they have their own reasons for playing. They are usually getting what they need from the game. It's OK to be a loser if that is what you need (I'm not speaking with tongue-in-cheek here, this is a fact. Self punishment is the underlying reason for most weird behavior in life). If so, be a loser in moderation.

Know yourself, play within your means, be aware of your motives. Have fun at the tables, there's not much point in doing anything if it's not fun, IMHO.

Build a bankroll. Treat it as a funny money. Have enough to withstand challenges of fate. Do not spend the winnings. After a while, if the game is good to you, buy yourself something out of the bankroll. A shiny gambler's watch maybe. A little token of pride. A mark of achievement. You will feel good about yourself, that's never a bad thing.

Think about the game. Listen to pros, listen to losers. You can learn both ways. Make your own opinions. Make your own mistakes. Re-evaluate. Post. State your opinions. Ask. Comment. Disagree.

Be comfortable at the tables at all times. If not, leave. The game of poker never breaks it just suspends for a moment. You can return whenever you are ready again. Take a fresh start. Maybe a kiss from a woman in love is all you need to come back with a vengeance. There are no blinds to worry about when away from the tables.

Be gracious at the tables. Win with flair, lose with style. Have pride, have strength. Do not steam, cuss, offend, whine, cheat, grunt or sneer. Do not masturbate. I've seen that too.

Be happy if you break about even after a few months. You proved yourself better than most, you have beaten the house. Not everybody can.

That's off the top of my head. Have fun and learn. I hope you'll be giving me advice soon.

Izmet

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Rammin’ and Jammin’ on a Draw

Jamming (raising or reraising when not holding the best hand but a good draw) is a very important concept in loose hold'em games. It's about being an about 2 to 1 dog when drawing to a flush or a straight on the flop, therefore, you are making money on your bets and raises if at least three opponents call! Therefore, if you are sure you will get enough callers, it's imperative to bet or raise (ram and jam) to maximize EV. IMHO, this is one of the most powerful weapons when combating the fish.

Sadly, this important poker concept seems to be overlooked by Sklansky and Malmuth, as their (otherwise) excellent work is geared towards tighter Las Vegas games.

The following is excerpts from rec.gambling.poker on this subject. Enjoy.


From: izmet@siol.net (Izmet Fekali)
Subject: Re: Ram and Jam, Bank shots and other no fold'em tactics
Date: 03 Aug 1999 00:00:00 GMT

In 7o67q7$grh$1@garnet.tc.umn.edu, Doug wrote: 


I have seen some posts on this newsgroup about certain tactics that are said to be very powerful in low limit (no fold'em) hold'em. Since I am planning a trip to San Jose soon and expect to find myself in the middle of some of the wildest California no fold'em games I thought that I would solicit comments on these particular plays. First, I will give the tactic and then a brief description of how I understand the tactic to be applied, followed by any questions that I have. I would appreciate any help that anyone can give in helping me to understand these plays.

As I consider myself an exeperienced (and no-doubt succesfull) player in no-fold'em games, I'll give it a shot.

1) Ram and Jam: 
> As I understand it, Ram and Jam is when you raise with a drawing hand because there are enough players that will call your raise to give you the proper odds for raising.

Correct.

This all seems pretty straight forward but a few issues confuse me. Particularly I am not sure how you calculate how many calling players are needed to make the raises profitable. I understand that for example. If you have 9 outs on the flop, then your odds of making you hand on the turn are a little worse than 4:1. The odds of making the hand on either the turn or the river are roughly 2:1. Which of these numbers do you use to determine how many callers you need?

Jamming is usually done on the flop, if there are enough callers on the flop. It is best done with strong flush draws. Here two callers are about borderline (as the odds against making your flush with two cards to come - but not necessarily winning with it - are a little better than 2 to 1). It's best to be sure at least three people will call your raises. The more, the merrier.

How to be sure to get enough callers? Well, you have to know your players. For example, if somebody bets in early position and there are two callers behind him and you are dead last to act, you have to consider your options: If you raise, will the original bettor raise again? If not, you can be pretty sure the other two players will not fold at this point (which is good). If he reraises, will he drive the two players out (which is not good)? If they cold call the first player's reraise (and thus you still have three opponents in the pot), you can reraise again (and hope the original bettor caps it). If somebody folds, you should not raise again.

When last to act, It is usually best to raise even if this causes some players to fold, as this can often buy you a free card on the turn.

When first to act, you have to decide whether to lead at the pot and hope you get enough callers. What you'd like here is getting like two callers, a raise, two cold callers and a chance to reraise and trap the players between you and the raiser. Usually, this is a little too much to wish for. Again, you have to anticipate the likely action. If there is a likely raiser to your left (acting immediately behind you), you should check. If you bet at this spot, he might raise you and drive everybody out, which is a disaster - you are out of position, have not enough callers on your bet and your odds for the draw are cut in half. Therefore, it is probably best to check and if the player behind you bets, you can trap the callers and raise (if there are two or more). If there are not enough callers, you simply call, as you do not have a proper payoff on your raise. However, if the likely raiser is at the opposite side of the table; this is ideal for leading into him. What you hope here for is to get a few callers before the action gets to him, he raises, a few callers and a smug reraise from you. You do not stop reraising until the cows come home.

These plays may seem science fiction to some Vegas pros, used to tight play, but believe me they surely happen a lot in lo-limit games. The most important thing is to plan your rams and jams carefully. Will your raise drive people out instead of getting more money in the pot? Is there a better flush draw out? If you hit it on the turn, can it get counterfeited on the river? Do you really have 9 outs on a flush draw or will you get f#$%ed by a third spade which will pair the board making a full house for your opponent and a sore ass for you?

Note, I am not talking about pot odds and how much you need to call. I am referring to how many players you need to call your raise to make the raise +EV for you. Also, I would like to disregard the free card and the semi bluff in this situation because a) they are less likely to work in a game that is loose enough that you would ram and jam in. b) They complicate the analysis somewhat. Also, I am talking about a draw to the nuts. If you are drawing to less than the nuts then you have to discount the value of your draw.

This is the proper way to discuss things academically. Real life play is something else. You do not have to draw to the nuts to make these plays profitably. With weaker draws one additional caller is usually enough compensation.

When you don't make it on the turn you would like to call as few bets as possible. Now, I can see that if you were sure that you would not have to call any bet on the turn then you should probably bet for value on the flop with as few as 2 callers (counting on them calling a bet on the river when you make it, to account for the fact that you have a little less than 2:1 odds of making your hand). But often it is too much to expect that the turn will be checked around and you will have to call at least one bet. On the flop, you committed to seeing the river and you pumped up the pot so that it would be incorrect to fold now anyway. So you are going to have to call the bets on the turn. But you would like the amount of money put in on the turn to be smallish compared to the amount of money put in on the flop. Your best way of controlling this is to put in as many bets as possible on the flop and then check and call any bets on the turn.

Your reasoning is correct. Check and call on the flop is automatic, if there are many people in the pot. You'd need at least five callers to bet or raise here, yet this is a mistake often seen by weaker players. Head's up play is a different animal, of course. Here, you'd often bet your draw, hoping to make your opponent fold before the river.

So to summarize: On the flop you can bet a 9 out draw for value if you think that at least 2 people will call and no one will bet the turn.

No. You can jam on the flop even if you anticipate a bet on the turn. However, I prefer at least three callers. Two are borderline, and it's impossible to predict the number of callers with that precision anyway.

In most cases, somebody will bet the turn and you will need more callers on the flop. Is 3 enough? It seems pretty clear though that you want to put as much money in the pot on the flop as possible so don't miss an opportunity to bet. If you think that you can get 5 callers on the turn then go ahead and keep jamming, otherwise just check and call when you don't make your straight.

5 callers on the turn is a little too much to wish for and it is often not enough.

Izmet


From: Doug
Subject: Re: Ram and Jam, Bank shots and other no fold'em tactics
Date: 03 Aug 1999 00:00:00 GMT

Thank you for your comments. I do have one question however. You wrote:

Your reasoning is correct. Check and call on the flop is automatic,

You mean the turn don't you? If not then I'm not sure that I understand this part.

if there are many people in the pot. You'd need at least five callers to bet or raise here, yet this is a mistake often seen by weaker players.

Thanks for your advice.

Doug


From: Abdul Jalib
Subject: Re: Ram and Jam, Bank shots and other no fold'em tactics
Date: 03 Aug 1999 00:00:00 GMT

In 7o67q7$grh$1@garnet.tc.umn.edu Doug wrote:

This all seems pretty straight forward but a few issues confuse me. Particularly I am not sure how you calsulat how many calling players are needed to make the raises profitable. I understand that for example if you have 9 outs on the flop, then your odds of making you hand on the turn are a little worse than 4:1. The odds of making the hand on either the turn or the river are roughly 2:1. Which of these numbers do you use to determine how many callers you need? 


My "Theory of Sucking Out" post might help you understand this. It is archived at http://www.posev.com/poker/holdem/strategy/.

izmet@siol.net (Izmet Fekali) writes:

How to be sure to get enough callers? Well, you have to know your players. For example, if somebody bets in early position and there are two callers behind him and you are dead last to act, you have to consider your options: If you raise, will the original bettor raise again? If not, you can be pretty surethe other two players will not fold at this point (which is good). If he reraises, will he drive the two players out (which is not good)? If they cold call the first player's reraise (and thusly you still have three oponnents in the pot), you can reraise again (and hope the original bettor caps it). If somebody folds, you should not raise again.

When last to act, It is usually best to raise even if this causes some players to fold, as this can often buy you a free card on the turn.

When first to act, you have to decide whether to lead at the pot and hope you get enough callers. What you'd like here is getting like two callers, a raise, two cold callers and a chance to reraise and trap the players between you and the raiser. Usually this is a little too much to wish for. 
> Again, you have to anticipate the likely action. If there is a likely raiser to your left (acting immediately behind you), you should check. If you bet at this spot, he might raise you and drive everybody out, which is a disaster - you are out of position, have not enough callers on your bet and your odds for the draw are cut in half. Therefore it is probably best to check and if the player behind you bets, you can trap the callers and raise (if there are two or more). If there are not enough callers, you simply call, as you do not have proper payoff on your raise.

All good points. More generally, if you don't know what is going to happen behind you, and there are a ton of players in the pot (so a semibluff won't work), it's usually best to check with a draw in early position, and then if there are enough players in and you won't drive out too many potential callers with a raise, (check)raise after someone bets. Low limit players will almost always call two cold back after calling one initially, so the only time you have to worry about driving them out is when they haven't called any bets yet.

izmet@siol.net (Izmet Fekali) writes:

However, if the likely raiser is at the opposite side of the table, this is ideal for leading into him. What you hope here for is to get a few callers before the action gets to him, he raises, a few callers and a smug reraise from you. You do not stop reraising until the cows come home.

Yes. In higher limit games, betting out early versus several players and a late position preflop raiser is an easy way to drive players out of the pot, since they don't like calling with a likely raiser behind, but fish don't think even that far in advance.

izmet@siol.net (Izmet Fekali) writes:

This is the proper way to discuss things academically. Real life play is something else. You do not have to draw to the nuts to make these plays profitably. With weaker draws one additional caller is usually enough compensation.

Yes, if you're not drawing to the nuts, it reduces your effective odds somewhat, but it will affect your decision mostly only when your odds were borderline to start with. Certainly a king high flush draw is very strong, for example. Not having the nut draw does make it tough to ram and jam to the maximum, however.

izmet@siol.net (Izmet Fekali) writes:

Your reasoning is correct. Check and call on the flop is automatic,

On the turn!

izmet@siol.net (Izmet Fekali) writes:

if there are many people in the pot. You'd need at least five callers to bet or raise here, yet this is a mistake often seen by weaker players.

In no fold'em, you will sometimes have those 5 callers and be able to jam on the turn. Or you may have a stronger draw, like a straight-flush draw, and need only 3 callers to jam on the turn.

izmet@siol.net (Izmet Fekali) writes:

No. You can jam on the flop even if you anticipate a bet on the turn,.

Right. Remember, you're making money on every extra dollar going into the pot on the flop, when you're going to win the pot more than your fair share of the time. On the turn, if you miss, you (usually) switch into calling for odds situation, in which you're losing on the extra bets going into the pot. Here, you're only calling for the chance of winning the money that's already in the pot (plus the money that will be in the pot by the end.) The painful situation on the turn does not mean you shouldn't jam on the flop, as you still make money for every dollar you put in on the flop. In fact, if anything, jamming on the flop might improve your call on the turn, since it ties the other players in on the turn, thus better supporting your draw and costing you less to draw.

-snipped stuff on bank shots-

In many ways no fold'em is not an easy game to play. The fish will lose money, but so will the intermediate players who will often make bad laydowns or hopeless calls despite playing good starting hands. A disproportionate amount of the winnings will go to the best player, the player who knows when to ram-n-jam 'em, knows when to bank shot, and knows when to run. There are players who specialize in being that best player in no fold'em games: Full Value Al in Vegas $8-$16 through $20-$40, Doc in the $15-$30's at Hollywood Park, and yes Izmet in Slovenia.

– Abdul

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